Friday, 30 December 2011

Interview with Illamasqua Employee - Leeds Store

Me: For my live project with Illamasqua we’ve been set a brief to create an out-of-store experience for the brand. In doing this, I’m hoping to create something entirely new that still appeals to the same demographic that Illamasqua currently cater to. So, if you were to take the brand out of store what are the key elements of the brand that you think would need to be highlighted and make prominent?

Illamasqua employee: I think it would definitely need to be the attitudes, to be very welcome and educational, we have the philosophy to greet everyone when they come into the store and come across as being very natural and laid back, but definitely that is key, I mean we’ve only been here for a few weeks and we’ve already got regular customers and that speaks volumes. We get a lot of people who want that whole, they want to be different and become more confident and they want to be a little bit more out there and I think that’s what makes us different from the rest.

Me: Yeah definitely, so do you think, is there anything when customers come in, are there any services that they ask for or anything that are a little bit more out there that Illamasqua don’t cater for yet? So, is there anything that you would think would be an ideal out-of-store experience?

Illamasqua employee: erm I don’t know because my personal opinion from coming from the Leeds store, we get a lot looking for transformations which we do and a lot coming for advice, like theatrical which we do; we can give advice for some things like that, same with special effects we can give advice on that so I mean regarding for personal and for media use I think we’re pretty covered on that. I think there’s quite a broad range.

Me: You’ve got the make-up service, The Final Act of Self-Expression as well haven’t you.
Illamasqua employee: Yeah that’s the first time that’s ever been done which is good because a lot of people actually do want that erm and it’s quite a specialist thing to go into that. I do think we cover a hell of a lot, I think the only thing we don’t do is hair and nails and that would turn us into a beauty salon.

Me: So because of the attitudes of the make-up with it being quite daring, do you think with an out-of-store experience it would have to be quite out there and quite daring too? Maybe something that would allow people to embrace a different side of themselves?

Illamasqua employee: I think I’d probably do two in my personal opinion because not everyone is as out there, normal day-to-day people do walk in, we offer rich liquid foundation and skin base offers that great way to perfect skin and that’s what most people generally go for, you know perfect skin. We do get some who are very daring, you know Goths and people like that, which is great so yeah I’d probably do two.

Me: Do two, OK.

Illamasqua employee: One for the natural look and then what you can create from that natural look into a really beautiful eccentric look. That’s what I’d do.

Me: Aah OK, that’s great.

Friday, 23 December 2011

Propganda Cast Vicky McClure for Brand Film

Propaganda, has cast leading actress, Vicky McClure, in the star role for three launch films to promote up market fashion brand, Illamasqua.

Working closely with Gloss Director, Simon Burrill and Channel 4 TV Series, ‘This is England’ star, Vicky McClure, to produce the two engaging films which clearly demonstrate Illamasqua’s brand messaging of becoming your “alter-ego” by the clever use of split screen techniques, where the actress plays all the characters in the film.

To date, three films have been produced. The first, tells the Illamasqua story with a focus on the brands heritage. The second, ‘Poem’ is a beautifully poignant script by Propaganda, in which the actress transforms into her alter ego through the application of Illamasqua makeup. The third, ‘Vicky & Vic’ is a brief, humorous take on Vicky’s alter egos, with Vicky portraying two versions of the same person having a conversation during an interview.

Julian Kynaston, Illamasqua founder, commented: “We wanted to use young British actresses ahead of models for much of Illamasqua’s communications. We are a British pro brand, whose origins lie backstage with theatre, film and TV and so it seemed fitting for us to use British acting talent. Vicky’s portrayal of skinhead and pacifist Lol in Shane Meadow’s multi award winning screenplay ‘This is England’ resonated perfectly with the two themes which lie at the heart of Illamasqua - self expression and cultural tolerance, and for this reason we wanted her as our muse. Simon and Vicky have done an excellent job of translating Propaganda’s creative scripts into three engaging films that perfectly capture Illamasqua’s brand essence and bring it to life in a really compelling way."

Mark Williams, our creative director said: “Illamasqua is already established as an up-market cult brand and therefore it was really important to us that the production quality of the films did the brand justice. The result is three engaging films, which have been produced not only to help people to understand the cultural heritage behind the brand, but also to empower people to explore their own alter egos.”

http://www.propaganda.co.uk/news/leading-lady/

Thursday, 22 December 2011

Spandau Ballet, the Blitz kids and the birth of the New Romantics

A movement that went on to dominate the charts and fashion worldwide grew out of a small club scene in London in the early 80s. One insider recalls how Steve Strange and Spandau Ballet revitalised the UK music scene

When my phone rang in January 1980, little did I realise its message meant: "Put out the cat. You're coming to the party of your life." The voice on the other end spoke without pausing: "My name's Steve Strange and I run a club called the Blitz on Tuesdays and I'm starting a cabaret night on Thursdays with a really great new band.... they combine synthesised dance music for the future with vocals akin to Sinatra, they're called Spandau Ballet and they're going to be really big…"

How could I know that this was my invitation to the Swinging 80s, where daily life would never sound or feel the same again? Paris and New York had steered the 1970s; now London was to become the creative powerhouse as Britain rode out a recession and its youth culture leapt back into the world spotlight.

One band defined a new direction for music and shifted its driving rhythm from the guitar to the bass and drum. They also made it hip to play pop. They were Spandau Ballet, who within three years went from leaders of a cult to one of four British groups (with Duran Duran, Culture Club and Wham!) who led dozens of stylish young clubland acts into the charts. They spread the new sounds and styles of London around the globe so that designers of its street fashion, too, became the toast of world capitals. And all because, unknown to a backward record business, a vast dance underground was gagging for a revolution in club culture.

Every Tuesday for a year, Strange had been declaring a "private party" in the shabby Blitz wine bar off Covent Garden. Outrage secured entry. Inside, precocious 19-year-olds presented an eye-stopping collage, posing away in wondrous ensembles, emphatic make-up and in-flight haircuts that made you feel normality was a sin. Hammer Horror met Rank starlet. Here was Lady Ample Eyefull, there Sir Gesting Sharpfellow, lads in breeches and frilly shirts, white stockings and ballet pumps, girls as Left Bank whores or stiletto-heeled vamps dressed for cocktails in a Berlin cabaret, wicked witches, kohl-eyed ghouls, futuristic man machines.

The soundtrack at this self-styled "electro-diskow" was hard-edged European disco, synth-led, but bass-heavy: German sounds such as Kraftwerk and Gina X, Giorgio Moroder, dissonant no wave on the Ze label, and always Bowie. Plinky robot sounds inspired dances with anglepoise limbs and an unmoving chin, while an overstated yet elegant jive saw partners hold both hands and raise knees as high as their waists. This spectacle shouted newness.

"The Blitz ruled people's lives. Exactly that," says Stephen Jones, then making hats at St Martin's School of Art, this year celebrated with a retrospective at the V&A. "A nightclub inspired absolute devotion of the kind previously reserved for a pop idol. I'd find people at the Blitz who were possible only in my imagination. But they were real."

Shrouding any pleasure in ritual magnifies its intensity and the Blitz was all ritual. Everyone supped and danced on the same spot every week according to some invisible floorplan: downstairs near the bar stood the boys in the band (no make-up), their media and management by the stairs, credible punk legends such as Siouxsie Sioux along the bar, suburban wannabes beside the dancefloor. Deep within the club, around Rusty Egan's DJ booth, were the dedicated dancing feet, the white-faced shock troops, the fashionista elite – either there or near the cloakroom, ruled first by Julia Fodor (still going strong as DJ Princess Julia) and later by George O'Dowd (less strong today as ex-jailbird Boy George). Downstairs, the women's loo was hijacked, naturally, by boys who would be girls. Upstairs on the railway banquettes might be respected alumni from an earlier London: film-maker Derek Jarman, artists Brian Clarke and Kevin Whitney, designers Antony Price and Zandra Rhodes.
In those early days Spandau bassist Martin Kemp, who learned to play because his big brother asked him, used to say: "I'm not really a musician. I belong in a club dressed as sharp as a razor. That's the thrill – just being there at 3am, excited by where you are and the people sharing the night with you." When Steve Strange eyeballed you at the door of his club, your look alone did not guarantee admission. He did not want passive consumers but "people who created unique identities". By taking Bowie at his word to be "heroes just for one day", you were expected to become one of the new names to drop.

It took a good year before the media caught up. In a ring-fenced page of cool that I edited in London's Evening Standard, I had dubbed these preening egos the Now Crowd since they lived so much for the moment. Two of the Blitz's tyro journos – Perry Haines and Robert Elms – had proclaimed them Herald Angels and Dandy Dilettantes. The national press came up with New Dandies, Romantic Rebels and the Blitz Kids, which is what stuck. Finally, in September 1980 this prompted the New Romantics headline (ouch!) in the music weekly Sounds. Everybody winced and denied membership.
No longer a weekly secret society, the Blitz became a publicity machine for the pose age. Attendance became a statement of intent – to lead a life of style seven days a week. When Bowie visited the Blitz he hauled away four of the kids to strut with his pierrot through the video for Ashes to Ashes. It earned each of them £50, helped Bowie to No 1 and launched a fad for Judi Frankland's ankle-length liturgical robes (inspired, she says, by the nuns in The Sound of Music).

It seemed inevitable that an unknown band should step out from the Blitz's sexually ambivalent ranks, eclectically garbed, crimped into wedge hair, and uplit theatrically by another art student, Simon Withers. Spandau Ballet sounded defiantly un-rocklike by playing the new synthesised electro-pop and singing about being "beautiful and clean and so very, very young". Their songsmith Gary Kemp claimed pointedly: "We are making the most contemporary statement in fashion and music."

If you've travelled this far, suspend disbelief one moment more. Earlier this year, when Spandau Ballet announced this autumn's reunion tour, Blitz Kid Dylan Jones, editor once of i-D and now of GQ, wrote unequivocally: "It is impossible to stress too highly how achingly fashionable Spandau Ballet were in the winter of 1979 and the summer of 1980."

Since Spandau's last live performance in March 1990 a perception has grown that the New Romantics were a passing fad, signifying little, and folk memory casts Spandau Ballet and their Brummie rivals, Duran Duran, as Thatcherites who sold out rock's rebel status.

In response to that, try this bold claim. When Spandau Ballet emerged, their strategy was to enlist their entourage of creative night owls not only to stage-manage the fastest launch yet of a new band but also to redefine youth culture in the working-class terms prescribed by the late George Melly, author of the essential paperback Revolt Into Style (1970). He claimed the first duty of pop is to "trap the present" and express the aspirations of society "as it is", not as others would wish. The Durannies, on the other hand, had nakedly commercial ambitions.

Spandau placed fresh emphasis on clothes and presentation, on self-respect conveyed both by the voice of Tony Hadley, and by dislocated lyrics underpinned with streetwise conviction. Spandau Ballet defined the new direction of pop by opening a debate about the credibility of "pure pop" as a celebration of the sexiness of youth, then claiming to have relegated "rock" to the album charts for good. Today in the eyes of their schoolmate turned manager, Steve Dagger, that makes them "the bravest band – we put up a flag musically and culturally".

If we recast the 80s as a subcultural timeline, the decade actually spanned six years. They began in June 1978 when David Bowie's world tour hit the UK and ended with Do They Know It's Christmas? in December 1984, when Band Aid confirmed rival groups who had risen on the same wave as a new pop establishment.

Though the May 1979 election put Margaret Thatcher in power, the term Thatcherism, describing both her political radicalism and her imperative to create "popular capitalism", did not come into general use until her second term. Amid the last spasms of the Labour government's "winter of discontent", times were hard and the future looked desperate as unemployment rose, then as now, towards 3 million. Even graduates were told they faced the prospect of no jobs – a trend at its worst in the south-east, where joblessness among school-leavers doubled in 1979 alone. "The city was broken," says Gary Kemp, talking about London, "it was a horrible place." The record industry had stalled, sales were declining, the charts were bland. Dagger, whose childhood memories are consumed by the Swinging 60s and the buzz the mods brought to Soho, right on his doorstep, says: "I badly wanted a new swinging London. There had to be a way…"

Dagger is the svengali behind the rise of the Angel Boys, as the five lads in Spandau Ballet were known, after the inner London district in which they grew up. He knew all there was to know about true mods like Steve Marriott's Small Faces who wore the sharpest skinny styles from Italy and curtained hair with centre partings.

The direct heirs of mod were plastic-sandalled soul boys like Dagger and Withers, then on a foundation course at St Martin's. Their paths soon crossed those of two lads from Barnet, graphics student Graham Smith and history student Robert Elms, plus a tall obsessive Welshman, Chris Sullivan, a northern soul dance fiend, whose mantra was "one look lasts a day". This little gang were the dynamos who set 80s music spinning.

Heading toward the same intersection in 1979 were Gary Kemp's moptop band who had given thrash and power pop a go, first as the Makers and then the Gentry. Dagger recognised that what they needed was a scene with which to align themselves.

Life before personal computers is hard to imagine but the words quaint and naff will do. In the 70s new technology ran to Space Invaders, ghetto‑blasters and digital watches. Mass media amounted to three channels of TV offering two weekly pop shows, plus the grown-up newspapers and four music weeklies. In 1980, the Daily Telegraph described discos as a "dehumanising threat to civilisation". No kidding.

It wasn't only the music scene that was dull. Before Blitz culture, there were no "style gurus" to propose what to wear. You dressed either as a Top Rank disco kid, a new waver in black drains and narrow tie, or one of those mutants like mohican punk or skinhead. That's why dressing up at the Blitz became an act of affirmation. The Blitz Kids were the first children of the television age, wise in the ways of the popular media, and they set out to subvert the realms the young know best, music and fashion. Gary Kemp said then: "A cultural identity is a great outlet for people's frustrations. Kids have always spent what little they have on records and haircuts. They've never spent it on books by Karl Marx."

The crucible for their ambitions has since become the nightlife norm: the one-off club night as pioneered in 1978 by Rich Kids drummer Rusty Egan. He printed a flyer declaring "fame fame fame" to lure Bowie outcasts to the un-punk safety of a tacky gay dive called Billy's, in Soho. In common with London's posher clubs, Tuesdays there were a dead zone. "I'll fill it for you," said Egan, establishing the principle of bar profits to the club owner, door profits to the hosts, who soon included Egan's flatmate vetting the door: pop wannabe Steve Strange, another Welsh graduate of the UK soul circuit who worked at the flouncy clothes shop PX which came to fix the New Romantic look.
By February 1979, the axis of Strange as greeter and Egan as DJ had graduated to the Blitz, a bar decorated with Second World War austerity that was thought to echo the down‑at‑heel 70s: bare floorboards, gingham tablecloths, hanging lights with dusty enamel shades, framed pictures of Churchill. Its manager, Brendan Connolly, had been struggling to promote intimate cabaret, and the Billy's crowd were cabaret incarnate.

The Blitz creed distrusted anyone over 25. Chris Sullivan, by then a St Martin's fashion student busy reinventing the zoot suit, said at the time: "Young people are no longer prepared to be sold clothes they don't like or go to clubs playing records they don't want to hear, being run by grunters three times their age, and having to pay for the privilege. When the Blitz opened, for a start it was cheap, but it was also extraordinary to have someone aged 19 vetting the door."

Spandau were the vital extra ingredient that pushed the Blitz into its critical phase. Their mission: to return pop to what Gary Kemp called a "visual extravaganza" in the spirit of Ziggy Stardust. Dagger determined to outwit the moribund A&R men ("There wasn't one that I rated") and change the way bands were signed. Kemp, who despised the racism of the anti-soul music press, determined to outflank these self-regarding gatekeepers. Their selectivity was an insult to the age-old two-way traffic between the UK and US and our gift for "enwhitening" their black beats.

The wind-up exploited two assets unique to 1980. First was the pent-up demand from Britain's vast and social soul scene, a grapevine ready-made for spreading the word. Second, the Angel Boys' entourage of otherwise unemployed Blitz Kids suddenly found careers in the tax-free world of what Whitehall started calling "the economically active" by dressing, photographing, staging and promoting the band. What united this collision, in Elms's words, of white face with white sock? Dagger was clear: "We were all in it together to cause a revolution."

High among Angel Boy priorities was the class war. Raised among Islington's tough council estates, most declared their paid-up Labour party credentials (possibly with the exception of Hadley). Gary Kemp's eloquent and frank new autobiography, I Know This Much, paints an affecting picture of his own humble upbringing in the 1960s, when, in contrast to the swinging going on in Chelsea, his family life included a shared outside WC, a "good wash" weekly at the kitchen sink, and parents well skilled in subsistence and thrift.

He believed in the traditional desire for a better life through your own endeavours. He would insist that there were more important incentives for change than money, while admitting, "OK, I'm acquisitive, but my moral viewpoint has always been left wing." One of Kemp's incentives was to best the NME. Mere mention of the paper and its "stereotyped class attitudes" had him fuming.
Kemp argued: "They don't understand style in working-class terms: they think it means money. Well, it doesn't. One of the most difficult things is explaining what style is to middle-class journalists because they always connect style with being bourgeois and they spend their whole lives trying to escape it. I don't feel guilty because I've made enough money to own my own home. It's only the middle classes who feel that kind of guilt."

Such perceived antipathy is the reason why Dagger refused to let most rock writers near his group throughout Spandau's first year, because he knew so few had ever been inside a nightclub. "What's more, they can't dance," he'd snort.

In his view this Jets v Sharks divide is the reason the music press has missed the start of every major trend since rock'n'roll, "and they've never liked soul", so before winning access to Spandau, he subjected all interviewers to discreet vetting. Applicants wearing denim or Doc Martens never reached the shortlist.

Such was the rigour that Spandau's coalition of 20-year-old talents brought to executing the whirlwind wind-up that it became a template for every New Romantics "rumour band":

(1) They staged secret "tease dates", never "gigs", at clubs and venues calculated to annoy the rockists, such as the Blitz, an art-house cinema, or a warship on the Thames. The audience got in only by looking good – which applied to critics, too.

(2) They refused to send demo tapes or invite inviting record companies to shows, so few insiders actually knew how the band sounded.

(3) Seemingly a band with no past, Spandau crafted an artful creation myth around the Blitz's postmodern themes: Bowie's "just for one day" notion of disposable identities, and of bricolage in which the band's baffling name was supposedly plucked arbitrarily by Elms from some graffiti in Berlin. The Blitz's motormouths and myth-makers were a gift to the media.

Concerts were put together with loving care. The most OTT secret date they played was in March 1980, the first of two at the arty Scala cinema. Following two surrealist Buñuel films, Elms stepped up to declaim some toe-curling blank verse, then Spandau were revealed casting stark expressionist shadows on the screen, fully romanticised with blousy shirts and wing collars and an insouciant cigarette in the raised hand of their tall, striking singer. Gary Kemp stabbed out Spandau's signature chords on the synth, guitarists Norman and Kemp junior held their instruments high against the chest in an arch anti-rock stance, while John Keeble hit his bass drum four-to-the-floor. Instantly, incandescent Blitz Kids swarmed into the aisles to demonstrate their oh-so photogenic dances and all the forces behind a cultural revolution worked overtime for their column inches.

To ensure favourable publicity, Dagger commissioned Spandau's first review, from Elms, and marched him down to NME to hand it in. I commissioned another for a national paper whose pop pages I quietly edited on the side, and the same writer Barry Cain returned to his desk at Record Mirror to relay the Angel Boys' romanticised vision of the class struggle through "working-class elitism" and Kemp's claim that the "funny clothes" spoke for "a whole attitude to life".

The fallout from this flurry of press included a TV documentary built around this group of obsessive dressers for 20th Century Box on London Weekend. The Scala spectacle was restaged, and after its transmission in mid-July the music bizzy-bodies set Dagger's phone jangling.

Spandau Ballet had played only eight live dates before signing an unrivalled contract worth £300,000 in today's money. In the end only two record companies "got" what Spandau were about, CBS and Chrysalis, and the second won by agreeing to greater creative freedom. The band secured an unprecedented package: 14% against the norm of 8%, their own record label, Reformation, to manage publishing rights and merchandising; a promotional video and a 12-inch club mix with each single, which were firsts for a British band. And they agreed in the spirit of democracy to a six-way split of the proceeds, Dagger being de facto a member of the band.

Two weeks after release, their first single, To Cut a Long Story Short, entered the charts and reached No 5. It was danceable, melodic and the vocalist could sing. As cult sounds went, this was unique. They called their new genre "White European Dance Music".

Within weeks of Spandau's hit, Britain's clubbing grapevine put yet more clubland bands into the charts, many unveiled by sharp young managers the same age as the talent. In the Blitz slipstream, a dynasty of 35 new-look acts charted during 1981 alone, including Visage, Ultravox, Duran Duran, the Human League, Heaven 17, Depeche Mode, Soft Cell, Toyah, Blue Rondo, ABC. That this was one of the most fertile years for British pop since the 60s was visible in the Top of the Pops Christmas shows a year apart. As 1980 closed, the Angel Boys leapt from the screen as the only act playing new music. By Christmas 1981, TOTP was given a sparkling neon-tech setting and a demented dance troupe called Zoo. That year Spandau were but one among a phalanx of visual shockers from the Human League to Soft Cell.

In the next three years a second wave of image-led acts refreshed the pop charts to become household names: Bananarama, Yazoo, Blancmange, Culture Club, Wham!, Thompson Twins, Frankie Goes to Hollywood. Insolence and narcissism lit a torch that led a generation through what might have been a dark age, for by 1983 one-third of Britain's jobless were under 25. The blitzkrieg took a giant leap for everyone on the right side of 40, especially in TV and publishing, which had lost touch with the young, just as the politicians had. Crucial magazines lit the way: in 1980 The Face, where Elms became chief chronicler of the scene and I brought photo-reportage from New Romantic clubs across the land; also in 1980, Terry Jones launched i-D which spread attitude and irony through its "straight-up" style of street photography; then, in 1981, came the glossy New Sounds New Styles, which was the main platform for four of us known as the Rebel Writers who swore death to rock.

The Face was the accelerator that drove mainstream journalism to adopt "style" pages. Television launched edgy "yoof" programmes that broke taboos so every clubber who wasn't "putting a band together" was "submitting a treatment to Channel 4", which had decided close to its 1982 launch to target a 15-30s audience. Marketing and retail, too, had to have "one of those kids with blue hair".
As clubs became workplaces and nightlife the essential engine of cultural evolution, they liberated music, design and, especially, ambition. In 1978, London offered only one hip club a week; by 1984 Time Out magazine was listing 50, while the British Tourist Authority reported that dancing was a serious reason visitors gave for visiting the UK. London Transport rolled out a whole network of night buses.

To be young in that dawn was very heaven. British youth is what the world's pop fans wanted – in America, especially, twentysomethings craved groups of their own age. Britain's visual kaleidoscope of cults was exactly what fed MTV from its launch in 1982 and loosened the stranglehold music radio once held. During Spandau's US tour in November 1983, alongside their hit True in the Billboard Top 40 there were 17 other British bands – more than the Swinging 60s ever knew.

Staying one step ahead of current style was one key to Spandau's rise, and it meant reinventing their sound every year. For their 2009 Reformation tour they have recorded a bravely acoustic, unplugged album by which sceptics will be able to measure their worth. It gives their greatest hits a 21st-century flavour, according to sax player Steve Norman, taking them to some "very dark, different place". For only the second time, Norman enjoys a songwriting credit for the likely new single, Once More. This, however, is "a stomping power ballad back in the epic mould" to keep the core fans sweet. A taste of yesteryear, but another step forward, too.

In 1983, Margaret Thatcher was re-elected and presided over a consumer boom until 1985. Then along came Stock Aitken and Waterman to make more than 100 UK top 40 hits and a return to the blandness of corporate brands; the rest is not very interesting history.

The Swinging 80s had been a tumultuous period of transition from a nation of makers into one of servants, when a seismic shift of attitudes wrenched many levers of power away from the over-40s who decided the nation's fate. Gary Kemp is satisfied with his band's contribution: "The rockists had been guarding their futures. We found a way through and made it easier for others to follow. We helped make the future the country of the young. And we dance differently there."

http://www.guardian.co.uk/music/2009/oct/04/spandau-ballet-new-romantics

Metropolis, mother of sci-fi movies, reborn in Berlin


Fritz Lang's futuristic 1927 masterpiece to be shown in full for first time after lost scenes are restored.

Film buffs from around the world have gathered in Berlin to catch the first glimpse of a restored, full-length "director's cut" of the sci-fi epic Metropolis that has not been seen for 83 years.

The resurrection of Fritz Lang's 1927 silent futuristic thriller follows the discovery in Buenos Aires two years ago of scenes that were thought lost for ever on the cutting room floor.

The homecoming is being celebrated with simultaneous screenings – with orchestral accompaniment – tomorrow evening across Germany.

Evoking the glamour and decadence of the Weimar era in which the film celebrated its original premiere, a gala screening will be held at Berlin's Friedrichstadtpalast, a revue theatre best known for its 1930s-style female chorus lines and cabaret.

Berlin's Radio Symphony Orchestra will play Gottfried Huppertz's original score in Berlin and several Hollywood stars, including Leonardo DiCaprio, are expected to be among the guests in Berlin for the screening, which critics have hailed as the highlight of this year's Berlin film festival, the Berlinale.

In keeping with the festival's ethos that it is not the preserve of VIPs, Metropolis will be beamed on to a huge screen at the Brandenburg Gate. Thousands are expected to brave the cold for a chance to see the 150-minute screening.

Film historians say the restored version gives more depth and new meaning to the cult movie, set in a futuristic city-state where the ruling class amuse themselves in "pleasure parlours" while the poor slave away underground.

The film cost 5m Reichsmarks, making it the most expensive picture of its day. It had a cast of 36,000 and was shot over 17 months.

But it flopped in Germany, after audiences and critics alike panned it. The ­science fiction writer HG Wells said "in one eddying concentration" it gave "almost every possible foolishness, cliche, platitude and muddlement about mechanical progress ... served up with a sauce of sentimentality that is all its own".

But Metropolis is now seen as the mother of sci-fi movies, an inspiration for film-makers such as George Lucas and Ridley Scott.

Key scenes were cut from the original picture because its distributor, Paramount, considered it too unwieldy for the American market. Protagonists were given new, American names, the insert titles were rewritten and scenes re-edited to keep the action comprehensible after the 30-minute cuts.

The tampering appalled Fritz Lang, who described Paramount's intervention as "mindless and dictatorial".

The cut footage was thought to have been lost, until 2008 when an Argentinian film historian began to search for it. In the archives of the Museo del Cine, Fernando Martin Pena tracked down a 16mm duplicate of the original 35mm export version. It had been sent to Buenos Aires before Paramount made the chop.

Today's cinephiles will be able to see the version that experts have spent months restoring. But it still shows the cuts and mutiliations that the missing parts have suffered over the past eight decades.

"We cleaned the film so that you can recognise the pictures, but you can't get rid of all the scratches and marks," said Martin Koerber, the lead restorer.

Metropolis aficionados will be concentrating less on the streaky screen – which in parts resembles a heavy downpour – and more on the unfamiliar way the film now unfolds as Lang intended. The new version restores characters who had been sidelined or removed and elucidates parts of the hitherto dizzying plot, such as why Maria, the workers' insurrectionist leader, is mistaken for a female robot.

Other changes include the reintroduction of the character of a spy; the expansion of the role of a character who helps the idealistic Freder gain access to the underworld; and the restoration of much of the drama and violence to a scene in which children are saved from slavery.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/film/2010/feb/11/metropolis-fritz-lang-berlin

Lucien Freud and Leigh Bowery

Artist: Lucian Freud, born in Berlin in 1922. His parents left for Britain in 1933 and Freud became a British citizen in 1939. He is unique as a 20th-century painter in his dedication to the portrait he has expanded the portrait's territory from faces to naked knees, nipples, feet and genitals.

Freud has no living rivals as a painter of portraits.

Subject: Leigh Bowery (1961- 94), a man of gargantuan scale physically and culturally, a transvestite performance artist, fetishist designer, leader of the band Minty and theatrical giver of birth.

Distinguishing features: Bowery is a character out of Renaissance art - perhaps Silenus, the companion of Dionysus. His flesh is a magnificent ruin, at once damaged and riotously alive. Who knew skin was so particoloured? To count the hues of even one of his feet is impossible: purple, grey, yellow, brown, the paint creamy, calloused, bulging. In a velvet chair tilted down towards us on the raked stage of the wooden studio floor, his mass looms up and dwarfs us. Walk close your eyes are probably the height of his penis. Bowery's violet-domed, wrinkly tube hangs between thighs marked with sinister spots or cuts his knees are massive. Bowery is a painted monument who quietly contemplates his existence inside this flesh.

This is the first portrait in a series that Freud began after seeing the performer strut his stuff at the Anthony d'Offay Gallery in 1988. Bowery regularly appeared on high heels, wearing latex body stockings and masks his vocals for his art band Minty were mainly orgiastic screams over rasping feedback. "I found him perfectly beautiful," Freud said when Bowery came to his studio and posed nude. What was planned as one portrait became a sequence. Bowery's presence in the studio is another performance, a self-revealing act of theatre. Bowery was a man who liked to wear disguises - a masked reveller, here unmasked. Freud is sometimes accused of sadism toward his models. But Bowery was a subject able to answer back, someone with enough charisma and courage to face the artist's inquiry head on.

Some of the paintings in this series are named for Leigh Bowery others are called more impersonal things such as Naked Man, Back View (1991-92). That painting treats Bowery as sublime spectacle: his body's hugeness is examined in a decoratively grotesque way.

This painting, by contrast, is noble, lyrical and loving. There's a comedy to the squareness of Bowery's torso and the sagging second face of his nipples and belly. But look at the grace of his left hand draped over the chair, the colossal scale of his feet. Those are a Roman emperor's feet. After a career of more than half a century, Freud can legitimate be compared to the supreme masters of the portrait, even to Rembrandt and Velazquez.

Inspirations and influences: The ambition of Freud's portraiture demands comparison with the Old Masters. Freud has even done a series of self-portraits over the years, charting his progress from handsome young man to naked old artist waving his brush like a weapon in Painter Working, Reflection (1993). Where Rembrandt painted people in elaborate costumes, Freud is a painter of nakedness his antecedents are the great French painters of the body - Gericault, Courbet, Manet and Degas. This monumental portrait most of all evokes the grand political portraits of Jacques Louis David.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2000/nov/18/art

Leigh Bowery

Leigh Bowery was drawn to London by punk rock, which in 1976 had reacted against fashion, media, art and pop to create its own language of revolt and transgression. Aside from the tremendous notoriety of The Sex Pistols, The Vibrators and The Clash, there was a burgeoning club scene which would quickly extend the boundaries of punk into hitherto white space on the cultural map. Punk was a possibility, as much as anything, and the metaphors of violence, artifice and transvestism which had already surfaced in the proto-punk theatre of Bowie and Kemp could be taken up by anyone and quickly extended through music, street-dressing or simply by going out. Punk fashion, beyond the high fashion of SEX and Seditionaries, was home-made and distinguished by its intentions. For Bowery, coming from Australia, going out could become an art form in its own right.

From the beginning of his public reputation, Bowery made personal statements which were only articulate through the medium of the body. In short, Bowery’s aesthetic had the effect of taking the extravagant costuming and make-up of Kemp’s Flowers and wearing them on the tube, or in the supermarket. This was art beyond the gallery, made possible by punk but unconnected to any single fashion or trend. Certainly, in fine art terms, there was nothing to compare with it; the nearest comparison would be Warhol’s superstars, but Bowery has exchanged the traditions of simple drag for a personal surrealism.

Bowery’s costuming and make-up has usually taken the form of extending his appearance to a limit which would be unacceptable - and inaccessible - to the imagination of fashion. He has made use of images - heavy bright spots beneath a blonde perm, or blue ink dripping down the sides of a white skull cap - which are cartoon-like and absurd in themselves, and worn them as personal fashion. Thus his outfits are unique to his ideas. The results can be grotesque or disarmingly pretty, but they never correspond to any orthodoxy already apparent in pop, fashion or art.

In the early 80s, with a revival of interest in the ‘transgressive’ writings of Georges Bataille, a group of writers, performers and filmmakers were brought together by Paul Buck to create three evenings of ‘celebration’ at The Bloomsbury Theatre, London, entitled ‘Violence Silence’. Inevitably, some of these readings and performances were devoted to considerations of sexual and satanic ritual, coarsely interpreting Bataille’s investigations of the relationship between literature and evil. Genesis P. Orridge and his performances with COUM in the 70s had already presented sexual acts as public performances, and by the time of ‘Violence Silence’, the intellectual underpinning of such work had been fully rehearsed. As with Ziggy Stardust, A Clockwork Orange, Flowers and proto-punk fashion, one can see in the championing of Bataille by London-based artists and filmmakers a continuation of the aesthetic which seems to have informed Bowery. It is a self-proclaimed underground culture, existing on a cusp between performance art and fashionable club culture, yet it is wholly immovable from its opposition of orthodoxy. Bowery distrusts the reported interview, yet it is fair to paraphrase his belief that words such as ‘shocking’ or ‘beautiful’ hold no meaning for him; he does not think or create in those terms. The lateral connection between the artists contributing to ‘Violent Silence’, the infamous ‘Anti Art’ show held in Camden Town and the early performances of Michael Clark can be seen as being embodied in the informal appearances of Leigh Bowery as an underground social celebrity. Unconnected to a specific medium, venue or gallery, Bowery could inject the luridly vivid power of his created presence as a kind of alternative muse - a zeitgeist made real - to the pop artistic activity of the time.

Around this time there were fewer figures more fashionable than Bowery in terms of his post-modern collage of media and intentions, but he remained firmly outside of fashion itself. He was feted and demanded by artists and designers as a presiding genius: the success of Clark’s groundbreaking ballets was due in part to Bowery’s presence, as were the designs of Body Map. Bowery worked on the extreme edge of self-expression, making himself as relevant to Culture Club’s soft pop as to the sexual politics of Clark’s work. There was always an element of clumsiness in Bowery’s appearances - a reference to the traditional drag parody of sluttish or matronly dignity, used by pantomime dames as much as Lily Savage or Hinge and Bracket. This quality of vulgar femininity (or vulgarised femininity) was made genuinely transsexual by many of Bowery’s outfits. Unlike the late Divine, who was modelled on a grotesque American matron, Bowery became an hermaphrodite character whose sexuality was either lobotomised or masked. As a sign, his body was singular.

The mid-80s saw Bowery’s first involvement with the work of Mark E. Smith and The Fall. Smith, like Bowery, is an artist who works outside of fashionability to the point that he is never fashionable yet always in fashion. Smith’s play, Hey Luciani!, was premiered at The Riverside Studios in 1987, and featured Bowery as a papal figure. Hey Luciani! was based loosely on the five days between the election and death of Pope John Paul I and showcased new songs from The Fall’s Bend Sinister LP, while merging Smith’s fractured prose with performance and film. Smith’s language of grotesque comedy, personal polemic and vicious satire was perfectly suited to Bowery’s persona as a kind of free-floating allegorical figure, and as a marriage of sensibilities the play was a success. In 1988, when Bowery performed with Michael Clark in Smith’s I Am Kurious, Oranj the increased professionalism of the production lost the rough edges which had made Hey Luciani! more engaging. Now regarded as a member of Michael Clark’s company, Bowery was clearly uncomfortable with the more formal, high art productions which Clark’s increasing celebrity commanded. The old fate of an underground which becomes merely fashionable seemed to lie in wait by the end of the 80s. Both Smith and Bowery drew strength from being on the outside at a time when fashionable pop society wanted them to become insiders’ insiders.

Increasingly famous as a prime candidate for Sunday supplement questionnaires and ‘guest appearances’ on fashion catwalks, Bowery’s real work was being produced in clubs such as Taboo at Leicester Square’s Maximus. Returned to the limitless, non-art medium of the ‘art of going out’, Bowery could recreate his appearance and his ‘performance’ according to his own chosen milieu. Interestingly, his performances at the Anthony d’Offay gallery were little more than extensions of his own ritual of studying himself in the mirror. By partitioning the gallery with a one way mirror, thus allowing the viewers to watch Bowery looking at himself, Bowery was having the last laugh at the expense of formal art. Like Warhol’s appearances in a glass-fronted cubicle, his performances involved nothing more than ‘being himself’. There could be no possible ‘art dialogue’ between Bowery and his audience: it was like a conversation between people who have no common language. Bowery was a ‘phenomenon’ - a self-reflecting signifier of a particular state of mind. By painting make-up on to gauze masks, using prosthetics and piercing, Bowery can turn himself into a character who explores, clumsily or stubbornly, his own desires and fetishes. To paraphrase once more, he will always be interested in presenting private sexual or bodily rituals as entertainment.

The culmination of Bowery’s career to date is his work with his pop group, Minty. Musically, Minty have been compared to Magazine and Wayne County, but for the generations who missed punk rock those references will matter less than the group’s utter dissimilarity to prevalent techno or indie guitar rock. Minty have the trash aesthetic of some early punk, developing their songs and their performance with each of their rare live appearances. At present, Minty are an underground group, but legends about the context of their shows are already proliferating. And the extreme contents of these legends have a basis in fact: most famously, Bowery gives birth to a blood and excrement covered woman, on stage, before vomiting in her mouth and giving her a cup of his urine to drink. In another piece, Bowery mimes coprophilia, his mouth smeared as he sings ‘only the crumbliest, flakiest chocolate…’ Ultimately, Bowery would like to perform with Minty on Top Of The Pops.

Hopefully, Minty will not become this year’s Sigue Sigue Sputnik: Pop has had ample time to weary of extreme and excessive performances, and tends to be cynical about what could be termed ‘outsider’ performance. Historically, however, Minty are well placed to find an audience amongst younger pop consumers who delight in the theatricality of Suede and will find that the sheer spectacle of Bowery’s performances offers them a unique engagement with targeted punk cabaret. Disconnected from pop history and the challenge which one pop era throws down to another, Minty can be seen as both continuing a tradition which runs from David Bowie to Throbbing Gristle - and developing that tradition for a new audience. Bowery’s involvement with pop owes more to The Sex Pistols than it does to Pop Art performance groups such as John Maybury’s Max. There is always humour in Bowery’s presentation, as well as an uncompromising idea of what art is or may be. Success, for Leigh Bowery, is little more than an occupational hazard.

http://www.frieze.com/issue/article/leigh_bowerys_immaculate_conception/

Interview with a Vampire - Anne Rice

This is the story of Louis, as told in his own words, of his journey through mortal and immortal life. Louis recounts how he became a vampire at the hands of the radiant and sinister Lestat and how he became indoctrinated, unwillingly, into the vampire way of life. His story ebbs and flows through the streets of New Orleans, defining crucial moments such as his discovery of the exquisite lost young child Claudia, wanting not to hurt but to comfort her with the last breaths of humanity he has inside. Yet, he makes Claudia a vampire, trapping her womanly passion, will, and intelligence inside the body of a small child. Louis and Claudia form a seemingly unbreakable alliance and even "settle down" for a while in the opulent French Quarter. Louis remembers Claudia's struggle to understand herself and the hatred they both have for Lestat that sends them halfway across the world to seek others of their kind. Louis and Claudia are desperate to find somewhere they belong, to find others who understand, and someone who knows what and why they are.

Louis and Claudia travel Europe, eventually coming to Paris and the ragingly successful Theatre des Vampires--a theatre of vampires pretending to be mortals pretending to be vampires. Here they meet the magnetic and ethereal Armand, who brings them into a whole society of vampires. But Louis and Claudia find that finding others like themselves provides no easy answers and in fact presents dangers they scarcely imagined.

http://www.annerice.com/bookshelf-interview.html